Dry Skin vs Dehydrated Skin

The esthetics industry has taught for decades that dry skin lacks oil and dehydrated skin lacks moisture. Dry skin is a type, dehydrated skin is a condition. Dry skin is one lacking sufficient sebum (skin oil). Another name for it is alipic skin (alipic means lacking oil). It can be genetic, triggered by some medications, or occur with hormonal changes, such as those that take place with menopause. A genetic dry skin is generally finer in texture, has almost invisible pores, and is beautiful if cared for and protected. It will not handle the aggressive treatment an oilier or thicker skin tolerates. If dry skin is not looked after, it will react quickly and age much faster than a normal or oily skin type. Part of the role of the lipids and sebum in the skin is to form part of the hydrolipidic barrier (protective barrier), to hold moisture in the epidermis, and slow the evaporation of moisture through the skin's surface. If skin is lacking the emolliency of skin oils, it will feel tight, and in most cases will not only be dry, but dehydrated as well (insufficient sebum to hold the moisture). Providing just water to address the needs of this skin type will do little, and possibly worsen the condition. Products used must provide emolliency, promote the barrier protection, comfort and protect the skin from further moisture loss. Consumers will describe their skin as dry if it feels tight, or flaking, and while it might be dry, in most cases flaking skin is from dehydration. Dehydration (lacking moisture) is a condition that can affect all skin types. You can have dry dehydrated, normal dehydrated, or oily dehydrated skin, but you cannot have a dry, oily skin.

It is important to know what your skin needs, do your research, have a professional skin analysis done and/or visit an esthetician or skincare specialist. The research and development being conducted in skin care, and the products for the skin, are able to address the different combinations of skin care concerns providing they are recommended and used properly. There are many highly competent skincare professionals willing to work with you to address your skincare concerns. If you need a recommendation for a spa or salon in your area, please send us an email. We would be only too happy to send you in the right direction.

  Email address: beautyeditorpost@gmail.com

Q &A: Manicure and Pedicure Spas - Sanitary Safety

Q. How do I make sure to avoid any potential risks related to services at nail and pedicure spas?

A. There are a few things we can suggest to help alleviate any safety concerns you may have. Did you know spas are required to keep cleanliness and sterilization logs customers can review upon request? Other than that, make sure to take a careful look at the condition of the spa, check for a valid license and ask about their sterilization policies. After all, it is your right to insist upon an ultra clean environment. Cleanliness is directly proportionate to the end result.

• Insist on brand new nail files (single use) before your manicure - reusing files from client to client is not OK.
• Foot baths are to be cleaned after each customer by a government approved solution for 10 minutes to eradicate any debris, microbacteria, or fungus that might be lurking in the bath or on the screen.
• All stainless steel utensils are to be sterilized after every use and are repackaged and labelled as sterilized. Nail tables are also to be disinfected between each client. Sterilization techniques vary, but generally include the following . . . germicidal soak, high temperatures and medical grade steam.
• Do not shave or wax your legs 24 hours before a pedicure treatment.

If you always make sure to follow these few rules, you can continue to enjoy spa services wherever you choose. The basic rule is, if in doubt, turn around and walk out!

Terry Face Cloths vs Exfoliators

I am from the old school of thinking when it comes to skin care. Why can't I just use a plain, old terry face cloth to exfoliate my skin and save the money I would otherwise spend on exfoliators?


Using a face cloth to clean the skin is fine as long as it is used in gentle upward circular motions. Having said that, there are many beneficial ingredients incorporated into exfoliators that would be missed by just simply using a terry cloth. More importantly, terry face cloths cannot minimize pores, help hydrate the skin, soothe and calm the skin, draw out impurities and do not have antibacterial capabilities. We highly recommend a consistent exfoliation skin care routine using a product chosen for your particular skin type. Most exfoliators are not very expensive, and in our opinion, the results are definitely worth the money spent.

Oh, and don't forget to exfoliate your entire body. Love the skin you are in!

Lip Schtick Tips

Why is it that the more I lick my lips, the drier my lips get? It is driving me crazy.

Stop licking your lips! Saliva contains digestive enzymes which will wreak havoc on the natural protective coating of your lips. The more you lick, the drier and more uncomfortable your lips will become. The skin on your lips is very thin and has no oil glands to help protect them from the environment.

Drink lots of water, use a humidifier at home, apply a waterproof lip balm that contains natural beeswax, shea butter, vitamin E (break open a capsule and apply to your lips), almond, jojoba, or coconut oils. Petroleum jelly works well, but it is a bit messy. Chapped lips, or those nasty little sores at the corners of your mouth, may indicate a deficiency in B-complex and/or iron.

Take care of your lips, . . . after all, they frame each and every word you say.

Exfoliation Feels Grate, Not Great!

I understand the importance of exfoliating and have tried to incorporate it into my skin care routine but my skin feels tight and red afterward. What am I doing wrong?


Exfoliation should leave your skin with a pink flush and leave a light tingling sensation, . . . the opposite of what is happening to you. Perhaps you need to reconsider how often you exfoliate and/or change the product you are currently using and select one that is not so aggressive. Don't forget to rinse, rinse and rinse again.Exfoliation is an important step in a skin care routine, but it is equally important to choose an appropriate product.

*For reference look at our posts on exfoliators on June 2nd, 4th, and 5th - a few helpful recommendations are listed there.

Antioxidants: The Leader of the Pack

I have been reading your post for sometime now and have learned so much. Thank you! I would like to see a list of antioxidants that I should be eating to begin the beautification process from the inside out.


Great question. The highest level of antioxidant foods generally found in supermarkets are, in order of strength: undutched cocoa powder (twice that of red wine/three times that of green tea); bittersweet chocolate; white tea; green rooibos tea; green tea; red rooibos tea; oolong tea; and black tea. Some studies claim that the blueberry (especially wild blueberry, a.k.a. bilberry) contains more antioxidants than any other mainstream fruit or vegetable, when compared on the basis of equal calories. Others give the top award to Montmorency cherry juice—which does have more calories than blueberries, but is accessible year-round. Other fruits and berries that are high in antioxidants include the blackberry, raspberry, cranberry, cherry (especially the Montmorency, also known as the tart or sour cherry), dried plum (prune), dark grapes (including raisins, purple grape juice and red wine), crowberry (a North American berry that looks similar to a blueberry), kiwi, pomegranate, papaya (a source of vitamin E, lycopene and beta-carotene, three very powerful antioxidants), citrus fruit such as orange and grapefruit (the highest concentration of antioxidants are in the pulp, where the pectin is found); and leafy, dark green cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, daikon radish, kale, kohlrabi, mustard/chard greens, parsnip, rutabaga, turnip and watercress). The latest star of the antioxidant show is the Brazilian acai berry, a true superfruit.

FYI - One cup of green tea has antioxidant effects greater than a serving of broccoli, an antioxidant-rich food. A 2006 study showed that elderly Japanese people who drank more than 2 cups of green tea a day had a 50% lower chance of cognitive impairment than those who drank less green tea, or who consumed other tested beverages. The high amount of catechins in green tea are believed to be responsible.*

Pondering Paraffin Treatments

Can paraffin treatments be used on the neck and face?


Yes, paraffin treatments can be performed on the face and neck, but as a strict rule, the outcome is only as effective as the product placed underneath it. Paraffin forms a warm occlusion to promote penetration of the product applied. While it will soften and hydrate the area, it will do absolutely nothing to tone and tighten the the skin. Also, it is a very real possibility that those who are claustrophobic may discover the heat and weight of the paraffin may not be comfortable. There are many wonderful professional treatments to choose from and enjoy.

Best Of . . . Anti-Aging - Top Five Things - Part 1

What are the top five things I can do to combat the aging process and have a more youthful look?

A youthful look, . . . well, other than your genes (and we don't mean your Levis) that will definitely depend upon how well you take care of "all" of you. Having a young face on an old body just simply does not work. The whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Serious anti-aging programs do not singularly focus on wrinkles and sagging skin, but address the very 'heart' of your health. In keeping with that thought, here are our top five things you can do to fight the age bomb . . .

1. DIET
There is no question that an anti-aging diet offers a 'live longer, live healthier' life. A healthy diet needs to be well thought out and balanced in concert with your body type and should include all of the food groups, preferably in variety. Fruits, veggies, green tea along with foods that are loaded with anti-oxidants are a good bet. It has been suggested that eating small amounts 3 to 5 times a day is the best way to go. Foods rich in anti-oxidants, or phytonutrients, neutralize the free radicals that are responsible age related troubles, such as memory loss, heart disease, cancer, and help win the battle against oxidative stress (too many free radicals) that are responsible for these conditions.

Dr. Perricone, a board certified clinical and research dermatologist reports that, "age related changes may be reversed by consuming foods and beverages that are rich in a variety of compounds, including antioxidants, and are anti-inflammatory, such as cold-water fish and richly colored fruits and vegetables." He goes on to say, "foods classified as pro-inflammatory can accelerate aging such as, saturated or trans fatty acids, sugars and starches, insulin levels surge and trigger a response that accelerates the aging process."

Also, your body needs 1 gram of protein for each kilogram of body weight, and preferably complete proteins (offer the 8 essential amino acids), amino acids are the building blocks for the proteins in our body, and proteins are the building blocks for most of our body tissues (collagen, elastin, fibroblasts, antibodies, skin cells included.) If you work out you may need to increase the amount of protein. The six essential nutrient constituents needed for healthy tissues are proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. If the nutrient requirement is not supplied there will be cellular atrophy, which promotes free radical activity and accelerates aging.

Last, but certainly not least, drink lots and lots of water each day. A good guide for this is to remember your body needs half your body weight in ounces of water each day. For example, if you weigh 130 lbs. you will need to drink 65 ounces of water per day, which is approximately 8 full glasses, . . . and no, that does not include the water in your coffee.

2. EXERCISE AND SUFFICIENT REST
Exercise is essential for healthy tissues which equals healthy bodies. Exercise triggers the body cells to regenerate, giving us healthier cells, tissues, bodies, minds. Not to mention, exercise is a great way to rid stress and improve cardio vascular, which means your cells will get more oxygen and allow for better regeneration and detoxification. Consistency is key, so once or twice a month won't cut it. A little every day is great, or at the very least, three times a week is highly recommended.

Now, about the rest of the equation. Getting enough sleep every night is very, very important. It is a sacred time when your body restores its energy levels, repairs and regenerates tissue, builds bone and muscle, and works hard at strengthening your immune system. It is a time when your mind de-stresses and emotional healing takes place. Is it any wonder why medical professionals insist that sleep deprivation poses definite health risks? Everyone must pay attention to the nurturance of sleep and ensure a solid 7 - 8 hours each and every night, . . . no more, no less.

The Myth About Eye Creams

Paula Begoun writes there is no evidence, research, or documentation validating the claim that the eye area needs ingredients different from those you use on your face or neck area. She also states that, "cosmetic companies put whatever ingredients they want to into their eye products and usually give you half as much but charge you twice as much as the same product for your face." Again, your comments?


Wow. Pretty serious accusations against cosmetic companies. In our opinion this statement points a cynical finger at all cosmetic manufacturers and belittles all of the wonderful research and development going on in a very credible industry. It is no secret that we strongly disagree. Eye creams play a very important role considering the eye area is about 1/5th of the thickness of the skin on the rest of your face. Face creams are designed to care for specific skin types and conditions, for example, they may have a matifying action or oil control for seborrhea (oily skin), a healing action for blemishes, give emolliency relief for dry skin, or even have a high SPF to protect us from sun damage. These ingredients would certainly not be beneficial to the delicate skin of the eye area. Nor would you want to use essential oils in products around the eyes as commonly used in face creams. Using a product that is too heavy on the mobile eye lids will cause puffiness or tearing, and with long time use will contribute to congestion in the small pores of the eye lids, a condition that is frustrating, not to mention hard to get rid of. When professional estheticians, or skin care therapists, see this type of congestion it is a dead give away that a product that is too rich is being applied to the eye area. You can find more information by clicking here to read a previous post we wrote on this very topic.

Thanks for sending these statements our way. There is so much to respond to that we will continue on our next post. Come on back . . .

Moisturizers and Skin Cancer

I heard that some moisturizers are causing skin cancer. Is this true?


A report was released recently naming four moisturizers that promoted skin cancers in mice. The moisturizers tested in the study were Dermabase (Patrick Labs, Minneapolis, Minn), Dermovan (Galderma Labs, Fort Worth, Texas - a wholesale-only product discontinued in 2006), Eucerin Original Moisturizing Cream (Beiersdorf, Hamburg, Germany), and Vanicream (Pharmaceutical Specialties, Rochester, Minn).

It is important to note the mice used in the tests had radiation damaged skin, which may account for the moisturizers' unusual tumor-promoting effect. Lead researcher of Rutgers University, Allan H. Connelly said, " In a 'mouse model' of sun-related skin cancer, frequent application of each product resulted in more skin tumors and faster tumor growth. This was unexpected. We really did not expect to see the tumor-promoting activity of these creams."

"The multimillion-dollar question is, ‘what about humans?’" Conney asked. "The answer is, we don't know. Our study raises a red flag and points out the need for epidemiologists to take a look at people who use moisturizing creams." The Conney team asked Johnson & Johnson to make them a "custom blend" moisturizer without two ingredients previously linked to skin irritation (sodium lauryl sulfate) and tumor promotion (mineral oil). The custom blend, on which Rutgers University and Johnson & Johnson hold a patent, did not promote skin cancer.

Acupuncture vs Acupressure Facials

What is the major difference, other than the obvious, between acupuncture and acupressure facials?


Acupuncture involves the application of filaments (needles) piercing the skin at specific points, and in some cases, manipulating them into position. It must be performed by someone specifically trained in the field of acupuncture. Although the procedure may lead to visible results, it may not be the most pleasant process for those sensitive to touch. One time treatments yield short-term minimal results, therefore, a series of 8 to 12 treatments are needed for longer lasting results. Acupuncture works on the concept of balance, the yin and yang, which gives the skin an overall healthy glow, stimulates collagen, and minimizes fine lines.

Acupressure, on the other hand, is generally more pleasant and easily worked into a facial treatment. The theory of the meridians and acupressure points follows that of acupuncture without the application of needles. Acupressure involves the application of pressure on specific points to address detoxification, regeneration, elimination, improving energy flow, and enhancing the well being of the client and skin. It also requires specific training, but not the years of study required for acupuncture. Many estheticians incorporate some acupressure in their massage, some have been trained on specific points to address specific concerns, while others have been trained extensively enough to offer acupressure treatments designed to compliment the skincare plan and address the concerns of each client. For best results a series of treatments is recommended, 2 or 3 times a week for 10 to 12 treatments, depending on the desired outcome.

Acupuncture and acupressure can both offer results, however, acupressure is more common in the esthetic industry. Acupuncture is more popular in the para-medical, or medical field, and is most often used to address conditions or injuries that are more critical than aging. There are also some machines on the market that offer light therapy in combination with pressure point massage which intensify the results dramatically.

Lymph Drainage

My esthetician told me she includes lymph drainage in my facials. What does that do?


Some beauty therapists will be trained to do lymph drainage or to incorporate some of the movements into their massage. This type of massage is not deep, it does not involve very much pressure at all, and for those accustomed to a deep kneading massage this will feel like nothing. It is an incredible method of detoxifying the tissue as it promotes the movement of lymph through the lymph nodes to be detoxified. Lymph relies on the motion of the body for its movement and can easily become sluggish. It is responsible for nourishing and cleansing the cells not reached directly by the blood. Lymphatic drainage movements must be carried out in a specific order and pattern with little pressure, or the treatment is useless. It is a very beneficial modality for skin that needs to be detoxified or that is prone to edema (swelling). The lymph drainage massage may probably not be memorable, but the results will be.

Facial Massage

What are the five classical massage manipulations mentioned in the Signature Facial post?

No matter if it is a hand, facial, foot, or body massage there are different manipulations used to achieve different results. Most beauty therapists use a structured massage format and will vary it depending on the needs of the client and the result they are after. Almost every massage will include the five classical massage manipulations, used in different rhythms, different pressures, different depths and different order depending on the client’s needs, tissue condition, therapist and the goal of the treatment. Some are gliding manipulations to soothe, relax, aid circulation and help the body to detoxify, while others are kneading, vibrating or tapping movements done to stimulate circulation, stimulate and detoxify deeper tissues, improve tonus, and promote cell regeneration. The movements can be done with finger tips, whole fingers, or the entire hands, depending on the area being treated. The pressure applied will depend on the goal, depth of tissue being treated and the comfort of the client. Five classical massage manipulations, . . . five more reasons to visit your beauty therapist on a regular basis.

Oxygenating Facials - The Way to Glow

My skin is dull and I can't remember the last time I had that peachy, healthy glow. I have heard oxygenating facials are the way for me to go. Should I just have this type of facial from now on or should I mix it up a little?


Oxygenating facials will certainly help you regain a healthy glow. Whether or not you should change it up depends somewhat on the cause. Someone who smokes, has a poor diet, poor elimination, or has poor health is continually stressing the skin cells and will find a need to keep something oxygenating in their skincare regimen, either facials or home care. If you are healthy and have gone through a temporary disruption in your skin, stay with the oxygenating care until the skin has regained its glow, and then consider addressing the other concerns of your skin. A mask, or serum, would be a great addition to your daily care to help to boost oxygenation. You glow girl!

Hydroquinone - Help, My Cream Turned Brown!

I bought a lightening cream that contains hydroquinone and it turned brown, which is kind of humorous since it is supposed to eliminate brown spots. Is it still OK to use?

Unfortunately, this is a very common problem with hydroquinone. It is an extremely unstable ingredient with the nasty tendency to turn brown when exposed to oxygen, metals, sunlight, or too much heat. A lightening cream containing hydroquinone must be packaged in airtight, non-transparent, non-metal containers. If your cream turned brown it is a definite sign the integrity of the product has been compromised and will no longer be effective. In that case, file it under "G" for garbage.

Skin Care Economy

A friend of mine buys her skin care at the local drug store and told me that I am wasting my money seeing an esthetician every month. I have to admit, money is tight these days and it started me thinking. I don't want to stop altogether because I can see a difference in my skin but wondered if I would I still get the same results if I cut my appointments back to once every two or three months?



There are a few things to be considered in order to answer your question. If you are having esthetic treatments to treat specific concerns then it is a good idea to maintain your regime for the best results. For example, if you have problem skin your esthetician will give you treatments to help detoxify your skin, rebalance sebum secretions, promote exfoliation, enhance product penetration, healing, regeneration and re-balancing. Your treatments and homecare products will be adjusted according to the changes in your skin. Professional products are more specific than those bought over-the-counter and will be chosen to meet your particular needs to ensure better results. On that note, professional products usually last longer making your dollar stretch a little more. Anti-age treatments, depending on the program your esthetician has designed for you, will also offer you better results if carried out on a regular basis. You could try to expand your homecare program by masking more often and adding an intensive serum to your regime which should give you a little leeway on extending the time between treatments.

In our opinion, over the counter products are not specific enough, nor are they recommended by a skin specialist who can actually look and feel your skin to prescribe the correct products. They may slow dehydration and provide basic care, but if you are seriously looking for results and age prevention keep going for esthetic care, even if you have to go less often. Discuss it with your esthetician and let her help determine what you can do at home in between visits to help your skin the most. The esthetician's goal is to give you results, not just retail a product.

Spa Etiquette - Buff Naked

I would really like to go to a spa but am not big on the issue of nudity. Everyone I know drops their clothing for a massage in the buff and that is something I just can't do. Any suggestions?

Unfortunately, statistics still show a great number of people stay away from visiting a spa for two primary reasons, . . . the anxiety around nudity and the thought of being touched by someone they do not know.

What to wear, or not wear, and the issue around the level of intimacy of a treatment is often a great concern for many timid spa newbies. Some bashful souls break out into a full sweat the very moment they are handed a robe and escorted to a change room. The level of discomfort most certainly rises upon instructions to remove the robe and slide underneath a sheet on the massage table. Don't worry, your therapist will leave the room while you arrange yourself. She knows not everyone is a member of the 'touchy-feely' crowd or entirely comfortable about being touched by a stranger, particularly in a state of undress. Some may say, "well, then a spa is just not for you." Untrue! There are a few key things that can be done to remove the perceived discomfort.

If you are shy, request a therapist of the same gender when booking the appointment. It is entirely appropriate to wear your panties underneath the robe, a bathing suit in the whirlpool, and a towel wrap for the sauna or steam room. If you are booking a treatment for your husband, ask him whether he would like a female or male therapist. Surveys reveal that most men are more comfortable with a female therapist. They do not have to go full commando, either.

Don't drink too many fluids before your treatment and go the bathroom just before your treatment. An hour is a long time between bathroom breaks with a full bladder. If you are shy, you will not want to get up off the table to visit the loo. And finally, relax and enjoy the moment. Feeling anxious during a treatment that was created to offer comfort is entirely counterproductive. Have faith in the professionals who work in the spa. They are well trained and know how to take good care of you.

Anti-Aging - Top Five Things Part 1

What are the top five things I can do to combat the aging process and have a more youthful look?

A youthful look, . . . well, other than your genes (and we don't mean your Levis) that will definitely depend upon how well you take care of "all" of you. Having a young face on an old body just simply does not work. The whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Serious anti-aging programs do not singularly focus on wrinkles and sagging skin, but address the very 'heart' of your health. In keeping with that thought, here are our top five things you can do to fight the age bomb . . .

1. DIET
There is no question that an anti-aging diet offers a 'live longer, live healthier' life. A healthy diet needs to be well thought out and balanced in concert with your body type and should include all of the food groups, preferably in variety. Fruits, veggies, green tea along with foods that are loaded with anti-oxidants are a good bet. It has been suggested that eating small amounts 3 to 5 times a day is the best way to go. Foods rich in anti-oxidants, or phytonutrients, neutralize the free radicals that are responsible age related troubles, such as memory loss, heart disease, cancer, and help win the battle against oxidative stress (too many free radicals) that are responsible for these conditions.

Dr. Perricone, a board certified clinical and research dermatologist reports that, "age related changes may be reversed by consuming foods and beverages that are rich in a variety of compounds, including antioxidants, and are anti-inflammatory, such as cold-water fish and richly colored fruits and vegetables." He goes on to say, "foods classified as pro-inflammatory can accelerate aging such as, saturated or trans fatty acids, sugars and starches, insulin levels surge and trigger a response that accelerates the aging process."

Also, your body needs 1 gram of protein for each kilogram of body weight, and preferably complete proteins (offer the 8 essential amino acids), amino acids are the building blocks for the proteins in our body, and proteins are the building blocks for most of our body tissues (collagen, elastin, fibroblasts, antibodies, skin cells included.) If you work out you may need to increase the amount of protein. The six essential nutrient constituents needed for healthy tissues are proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. If the nutrient requirement is not supplied there will be cellular atrophy, which promotes free radical activity and accelerates aging.

Last, but certainly not least, drink lots and lots of water each day. A good guide for this is to remember your body needs half your body weight in ounces of water each day. For example, if you weigh 130 lbs. you will need to drink 65 ounces of water per day, which is approximately 8 full glasses, . . . and no, that does not include the water in your coffee.

2. EXERCISE AND SUFFICIENT REST
Exercise is essential for healthy tissues which equals healthy bodies. Exercise triggers the body cells to regenerate, giving us healthier cells, tissues, bodies, minds. Not to mention, exercise is a great way to rid stress and improve cardio vascular, which means your cells will get more oxygen and allow for better regeneration and detoxification. Consistency is key, so once or twice a month won't cut it. A little every day is great, or at the very least, three times a week is highly recommended.

Now, about the rest of the equation. Getting enough sleep every night is very, very important. It is a sacred time when your body restores its energy levels, repairs and regenerates tissue, builds bone and muscle, and works hard at strengthening your immune system. It is a time when your mind de-stresses and emotional healing takes place. Is it any wonder why medical professionals insist that sleep deprivation poses definite health risks? Everyone must pay attention to the nurturance of sleep and ensure a solid 7 - 8 hours each and every night, . . . no more, no less.

Part 2 - Friday