Meladerm® Skin Lightening Product

Meladerm® has most definitely risen in popularity as a very effective skin lightener/brightener. The formula boasts 10 active ingredients obtained from natural extracts such as Mulberry, Licorice, Lemon, Emblica (Indian Gooseberry) and Bearberry plants (Apha Arbutin). This product also contains Kojic Acid which offers antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant properties derived from the fermentation process used to make japanese wine, aka sake. What is most impressive about Meladerm® is what is not on the list of ingredients . . . no hydroquinone, no parabens, no mineral oil, no mercury, no steroids and no harmful bleaching agents.

Meladerm® is used for hyperpigmentation, livers and sun spots, freckles, sun damage, birthmarks, acne marks, scars and uneven skin tones. The product is applied twice daily (morning and evening) and should be left for ten minutes before applying any makeup or other skin creams. A good SPF 30 cream should be used along with the product. Meladerm's® efficiency can be heightened by using a good exfoliation routine along side a healthy, daily skin care routine. Initial results are generally noted after 2 weeks with full results around the second or third month of dedicated use depending on the specific physiology of each individual's skin.

SOTHYS Double Lightening Serum

Sothys has created a great serum to address hyperpigmentation. There are two sides to the product's container, one offering a serum to use in the morning and one offering a serum to use at night.

The morning serum (white side) incorporates ingredients to inhibit the enzymes needed in melanin production, chamomile extract to block melanin production, white tea extract and vitamin PP (niacinamide) to slow the transport of melanin to the skin cells, as well as MSH-Control™ to disrupt the melanin production. It has a light, quickly absorbed texture that is easy to use.

The night serum (navy side) is formulated to promote the exfoliation process offering an immediate action by removing darker surface cells, stimulating cell renewal to promote newer, healthier, and less pigmented skin cells faster. Again, an easy non-irritating serum that promotes the absorption of the morning serum and is simple and pleasant to use.

If you are willing to invest the time to use a serum in the morning and at night, are patient for the cell renewal to take place, and of course, protect your skin from UV rays, the results will be apparent without any aggression to your skin. It can be used to treat each pigmented area, or used all over for those who appreciate lighter, brighter complexions. What a duo!

Hydroquinone - Help, My Cream Turned Brown!

I bought a lightening cream that contains hydroquinone and it turned brown, which is kind of humorous since it is supposed to eliminate brown spots. Is it still OK to use?

Unfortunately, this is a very common problem with hydroquinone. It is an extremely unstable ingredient with the nasty tendency to turn brown when exposed to oxygen, metals, sunlight, or too much heat. A lightening cream containing hydroquinone must be packaged in airtight, non-transparent, non-metal containers. If your cream turned brown it is a definite sign the integrity of the product has been compromised and will no longer be effective. In that case, file it under "G" for garbage.

BIOELEMENTS Lightplex Scientific Pigment Balancer™

Bioelements Lightplex Scientific Pigment Balancer™ is a product that gives rapid visual results as it promotes the exfoliation of pigmented surface cells. This exfoliation also facilitates the absorption of the active ingredients that are focused on inhibiting melanin production, which will also serve to promote less pigment in the newer cells as they move to the skin's surface. The combination of these actions ensures a targeted lightening effect on hyperpigmentation.

This lightener contains several plant extracts that possess hydroquinone-like actions without the possible irritation or side effects of hydroquinone. These include arbutin, bearberry or uva ursi extracts, metacarpus scaber and waltheria indica extracts. Anti-oxidants are also incorporated into the formula to help minimize inflammation and boost the moisture levels of the skin making this product very pleasant to use. Dreamy.

COSMEDIX Lightening Fading Serum

Cosmedix Lightening Fading Serum is an "all natural" skin lightener that inhibits the pigmentation process and effectively normalizes over-functioning melanin production. Healthy exfoliation is accelerated by the use of an effective AHA (lactic acid). This serum is also loaded with multi-purpose anti-oxidants, such as green tea and Vitamin E.

It is a simple but powerful serum that keeps the skin soft and supple with the beta-carotene it contains. It is always recommended to have more than one component to interfere with the melaongenesis process, and this product does just that, while ensuring minimal irritation thanks to the anti-inflammatory properties of licorice and alpha-bisabolol. Maximize the effects, minimize irritation and inflammation? Simple perfection.

emerginC Spot Lightening Gel

EmerginC Spot Lightening Gel is a nice light easy to apply lightening gel. This product has a nice mix of components that impede the production and distribution of melanin to the skin cells. Arbutin from the bearberry bush, vitamin C, kojic acid, all interrupt the action of tyrosinase, the enzyme needed to instigate production of melanin. They all function a little differently giving a broader affect on inhibiting the pigment production without the irritation and potential side effects of hydroquinone.


Over time kojic acid will also cause the transport system (dendrites) from the melanocyte to the skin cells to deteriorate, eliminating pigment distribution. Vitamin C is a great anti-oxidant, and as well as inhibiting tyrosinase, it will inhibit the reaction needed with copper, preventing melanogenesis. In short this lightening gel contains a nice mixture to battle hyper-pigmentation. This product also offers AHA’s to promote exfoliation and improve the absorption of the active ingredients along with some anti-inflammatory soothing ingredients to counter any irritation.

Skin Lightening 'Ingredient Hot Sheet'

New lightening products and their superstar ingredients . . .
• Agarum Extract ~ from sea colander algae
• Arbutin ~ found in cranberries, blueberries, the skin of most pears
• Azeleic acid ~ from the metabolism of a form of yeast (originally used for treating acne)
• Bearberry Extract (also referred to as Uva Ursi) ~ from the leaves of the Bearberry Shrub
• Chamomile Extract
• Dithiaoctanediol
• Glabridin ~ licorice extract (also has the added benefit of anti-inflammatory properties)
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Kojic Acid ~ from fungal metabolism
• Lemon
• Mitracarpus Scaber ~ from the leaves of a tropical plant native to West Africa
• Mulberry Extract
• Niacinamide ~ commonly known as vitamin B3
• Polyphenols and proanthocyanidin oligomers ~ found in white tea extract
• Vitamin C

And, don't forget those amazing AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), i.e. glycolic, lactic, citric, malic or tartaric, that are primarily found in lightening products because they promote exfoliation. This alone will lighten the depth of the hyperpigmentation. Once dead surface cells are removed there will be better penetration of other actives, enhancing their effects. Exfoliation promotes cell regeneration for a quicker movement of newer, less pigmented cells to the skin's surface. The results? Lightening strikes.

Melanin - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Ah, brown spots, . . . some are beautiful, some are not. Some are inherited, like freckles, others are caused by irritation, friction or injury on the skin (this could be as simple as a pimple). Some are caused by hormonal, or drug, stimulation of the cells that make melanin, and some are pigmentation marks referred to as photo-aging, which are the tell-tale signs of sun exposure during a lifetime.

Hyperpigmentation is triggered by an enzyme that blocks the production of melanin causing an oxidation reaction much like the blackening of a potato, or avocado, when exposed to air.

No matter the cause, there are two approaches to lightening hyperpigmentation. Skin bleaching and skin lightening. The only skin bleaching agent the FDA acknowledges is hydroquinone which gives fairly rapid results, but unfortunately they are short lived. Darker pigmented cells will surface when the lightened ones shed.

Skin lightening products and light therapy can offer longer lasting improvements, although the results may take a little longer (approximately 28 days). They are more efficient and much easier on the skin. A good exfoliation routine will allow for better penetration of the ingredients being applied. No matter the type of pigmentation you want to treat, sun exposure is counterproductive, so make sure to wear sun protection and/or avoid UV exposure.

Coming up . . . reviews of skin lighteners.

Hydroquinone - The Big Unknown

Hydroquinone is used in skin care to temporarily lighten pigmentations such as freckles, pregnancy mask and age spots by inhibiting the process that leads to discoloration. In the United States, the FDA estimates there are 65 companies selling more than 200 products containing hydroquinone in an array of over-the-counter products (up to 2% strength) and prescriptions (up to 4%). The most common preparation is a 3% topical solution that is generally applied twice a day on non irritated skin (eye and mouth areas must be avoided).

Hydroquinone has been shrouded in controversy since 2001 when it was banned in Europe following clinical tests showing it was the cause of leukemia in mice when used in large doses for a long period of time. Japan, Australia and Canada followed suit. The U.S. has proposed a ban, or at the very least, the FDA is pushing for stronger regulations and physician's prescriptions. Currently, there is a four month grace period while the new proposed regulations are being discussed. For now, if you live in the U.S., you have a choice as to whether to use it, or not. It is a time to do your homework and make a wise personal decision.

Cautionary Info:
Exposure to ultra violet rays will trigger repigmentation of the bleached areas. It is always recommended to avoid UV exposure and wear sun protection. It is not recommended if you have allergies to sulfites. There can be side effects, or allergic reactions, such as a rash, erythema (redness), swelling, blistering, drying of the skin, cracking or peeling of the skin, even shortness of breath. In rare cases Onchronosis can develop, which is a blue black darkening and thickening of the skin. There has also been some evidence of abnormal adrenal functioning and high mercury levels in individuals using topical hydroquinone as well as some research has shown it to be a carcinogen.

The good news? There are so many other options to lightening pigmentation that are effective without the side effects or aggression of this compound. Some may take a little longer to show results, but there is no question they are much safer.

Stay tuned . . .