CREDENTIALS Azulene Toner

If you are looking for a gentle, soothing lotion to refresh and soften your skin, . . . Credentials Azulene toner is one to consider. The combination of several plant extracts offer soothing properties along with the decongesting characteristics of ivy, and mild toning action of arnica and witch hazel, this toner has great efficacy.

The cucumber helps to brighten the complexion and combined with the shepherd's purse (pellitory extract) and the rose water base this lotion helps to lock moisture into the skin. All of these components will to ensure the skin is prepared to receive the benefits offered in the products that follow in any at-home skin care program. After use, make sure to rinse well. No artificial fragrances or color.

INSTITUT DERMED Antioxidant Protective Toner

Institut Dermed's Antioxidant Protective Toner is a great example of how beneficial a toner can be. While doing its job rebalancing the pH of the skin after cleansing and preparing the skin to facilitate penetration of the serums and creams that follow, it also offers an incredible defense against free radical damage.

This formula contains anti-oxidants like vitamin C, uric acid, antioxidant enzymes like L-glutathione, and Spin Trap (molecules that make anti-oxidants more effective and productive) creating a solid defense against stress and all types of aging. The geramium provides de-stressing properties, and along with aloe vera and allantoin, soothes and promotes hydration. Witch hazel has been added for its slight astringent properties and the ability to help minimize redness and fragile capillaries. The alcohol content is rooted from jasmine which is non-drying and functions as a preservative. The overall benefits of this toner will boost the results of a good skin care regime and offers an added bonus of a mist applicator making this product a pleasure to use.

YONKA Lotion - Normal to Dry Skin

You can always count on YonKa for sourcing some nice plant extracts to meet the needs of the skin. The lavender and cypress botanicals will ensure a soothing, anti-inflammatory, de-stressing action. The rosemary will also aid circulation, improving cellular activities. The refreshing 'scent and sensation' will have you looking forward to misting your face and neck with this lotion.

This alcohol free lotion will reinforce the essential superficial hydration of the skin, especially if you apply your day or night cream while the skin is still moist with the lotion. The plant oils give great emolliency to the skin making it a favourite for normal to dry skin types, although it will probably feel too much for a more oilier skin.

PEVONIA Problematic Skin Lotion

Pevonia's Problematic Lotion is gentle enough to use on all skin types, which is a blessing when trying to address blemishes. Unfortunately, it is not just the teenager with oily skin who gets to endure breakouts; they even affect the baby boomers going through the early stages of menopause. Pevonia created this lotion to address the infection of blemishes without the use of alcohol, which is very dehydrating. Great news for all concerned.

The camphor it contains will promote healing while the azulene and chamomile extract offer anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. Camphor can be a little drying for some, but for most, the other hydrating components will counteract any drying effect. If you need more hydration, boost it with a serum or your cream choice. Circulation is improved thanks to the witch hazel that helps to detoxify, tone down redness, and improve cellular nourishment . . . excellent for all skin types.

Along with the blemish addressing ingredients, Pevonia's lotion maintains the skin's hydration while promoting exfoliation with salicylic acid. This prevents the build up of dead skin cells that contribute to new blemishes and will add a look of vitality for those thicker dull mature skin types, not to mention improving the absorption of active ingredients. A great non-aggressive lotion that can be applied all over the face with a mist applicator or with a cotton pad. S-m-o-o-t-h . . .

Astringents, Toners and Lotions

Astringents, toners and lotions have a primary role to refresh, rebalance and restore the pH of cleansed skin. They do not cleanse the skin but complete the cleansing process by removing impurities, excess oils, or any remaining residue left from cleansing (including the trace minerals left behind from the water used to rinse the skin).

For years, the industry referred to astringents as those containing alcohol, and toners and lotions for those that did not. All three terms are now being used interchangeably. No matter what they are called, it is a shame these little gems are often forgotten in a skin care routine. In reality, they should be thought of as water boosted with great active ingredients. The non-alcohol containing products also boost the hydration of the skin. Day cream should be applied while the skin is still moist with toner to lock in the moisture of the toner. As an added bonus you will need less cream.

Lotions will also aid the absorption of beneficial ingredients of the products used after them. They have been created to hydrate, normalize sebaceous secretion, provide emolliency, soothe, address hyperpigmentation, strengthen capillaries, improve circulation and exfoliation, just to name a few possible benefits. Some have mist applicators, some can be reapplied over your make-up to refresh throughout the day, and others should be applied on a cotton pad (hint: if using a cotton pad moisten it with water first, squeeze out the excess water then put your lotion on the pad and apply - you will use less product as the pad will not soak up all of your lotion.) No matter your preference, watch for some winners chosen for review in upcoming posts.

Note: There is an exception to offering the above benefits. Those that contain alcohol (usually it is ethanol) must be used in specific trouble areas as they are too aggressive to be used all over the face.

SPA SWEEPSTAKES - ENTER TO WIN

LIFETIME'S GIRLS GETAWAY SWEEPSTAKES
ENTER BY JULY 8TH
One (1) Grand Prize is available. The Grand Prize consists of a five-day/four night trip for winner and two (2) guests to the Coconut Bay Beach Resort and Spa in St. Lucia. The Grand Prize travel package includes: three (3) round trip coach-class tickets from the major U.S. gateway city airport closest to the winner's residence (in Sponsor's sole discretion) to Hewonarra airport in St. Lucia; ground transportation to and from the Hewonarra airport in St. Lucia; three (3) standard hotel rooms (single occupancy) for a four (4) night stay at the Coconut Bay Beach Resort and Spa in St. Lucia; one (1) spa treatment (designated by Sponsor) for Grand Prize winner and each guest in the hotel spa (three [3] spa treatments total), all meals and snacks; unlimited juices, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages; daily schedule of activities and entertainment programs made available by the resort; and all resort taxes and gratuities. The Approximate Retail Value ("ARV") of the Grand Prize is $6630.

CONDE NAST TRAVELER'S BUSINESS TRAVEL SURVEY SWEEPSTAKES
ENTER BY JULY 19TH
One (1) Grand Prize: one standard room (double occupancy) for three (3) nights at a top-rated spa resort in North America and the Caribbean as evaluated by the 2008 Condé Nast Traveler Spa Poll, round-trip air transportation (economy class) for two (2) from the major commercial airport nearest the winner's primary residence in the United States or Canada, and hotel transfers. The approximate retail value of the prize is $3,000, depending on exact itinerary.

SOTHYS Double Lightening Serum

Sothys has created a great serum to address hyperpigmentation. There are two sides to the product's container, one offering a serum to use in the morning and one offering a serum to use at night.

The morning serum (white side) incorporates ingredients to inhibit the enzymes needed in melanin production, chamomile extract to block melanin production, white tea extract and vitamin PP (niacinamide) to slow the transport of melanin to the skin cells, as well as MSH-Control™ to disrupt the melanin production. It has a light, quickly absorbed texture that is easy to use.

The night serum (navy side) is formulated to promote the exfoliation process offering an immediate action by removing darker surface cells, stimulating cell renewal to promote newer, healthier, and less pigmented skin cells faster. Again, an easy non-irritating serum that promotes the absorption of the morning serum and is simple and pleasant to use.

If you are willing to invest the time to use a serum in the morning and at night, are patient for the cell renewal to take place, and of course, protect your skin from UV rays, the results will be apparent without any aggression to your skin. It can be used to treat each pigmented area, or used all over for those who appreciate lighter, brighter complexions. What a duo!

Hydroquinone - Help, My Cream Turned Brown!

I bought a lightening cream that contains hydroquinone and it turned brown, which is kind of humorous since it is supposed to eliminate brown spots. Is it still OK to use?

Unfortunately, this is a very common problem with hydroquinone. It is an extremely unstable ingredient with the nasty tendency to turn brown when exposed to oxygen, metals, sunlight, or too much heat. A lightening cream containing hydroquinone must be packaged in airtight, non-transparent, non-metal containers. If your cream turned brown it is a definite sign the integrity of the product has been compromised and will no longer be effective. In that case, file it under "G" for garbage.

BIOELEMENTS Lightplex Scientific Pigment Balancer™

Bioelements Lightplex Scientific Pigment Balancer™ is a product that gives rapid visual results as it promotes the exfoliation of pigmented surface cells. This exfoliation also facilitates the absorption of the active ingredients that are focused on inhibiting melanin production, which will also serve to promote less pigment in the newer cells as they move to the skin's surface. The combination of these actions ensures a targeted lightening effect on hyperpigmentation.

This lightener contains several plant extracts that possess hydroquinone-like actions without the possible irritation or side effects of hydroquinone. These include arbutin, bearberry or uva ursi extracts, metacarpus scaber and waltheria indica extracts. Anti-oxidants are also incorporated into the formula to help minimize inflammation and boost the moisture levels of the skin making this product very pleasant to use. Dreamy.

COSMEDIX Lightening Fading Serum

Cosmedix Lightening Fading Serum is an "all natural" skin lightener that inhibits the pigmentation process and effectively normalizes over-functioning melanin production. Healthy exfoliation is accelerated by the use of an effective AHA (lactic acid). This serum is also loaded with multi-purpose anti-oxidants, such as green tea and Vitamin E.

It is a simple but powerful serum that keeps the skin soft and supple with the beta-carotene it contains. It is always recommended to have more than one component to interfere with the melaongenesis process, and this product does just that, while ensuring minimal irritation thanks to the anti-inflammatory properties of licorice and alpha-bisabolol. Maximize the effects, minimize irritation and inflammation? Simple perfection.

emerginC Spot Lightening Gel

EmerginC Spot Lightening Gel is a nice light easy to apply lightening gel. This product has a nice mix of components that impede the production and distribution of melanin to the skin cells. Arbutin from the bearberry bush, vitamin C, kojic acid, all interrupt the action of tyrosinase, the enzyme needed to instigate production of melanin. They all function a little differently giving a broader affect on inhibiting the pigment production without the irritation and potential side effects of hydroquinone.


Over time kojic acid will also cause the transport system (dendrites) from the melanocyte to the skin cells to deteriorate, eliminating pigment distribution. Vitamin C is a great anti-oxidant, and as well as inhibiting tyrosinase, it will inhibit the reaction needed with copper, preventing melanogenesis. In short this lightening gel contains a nice mixture to battle hyper-pigmentation. This product also offers AHA’s to promote exfoliation and improve the absorption of the active ingredients along with some anti-inflammatory soothing ingredients to counter any irritation.

Skin Lightening 'Ingredient Hot Sheet'

New lightening products and their superstar ingredients . . .
• Agarum Extract ~ from sea colander algae
• Arbutin ~ found in cranberries, blueberries, the skin of most pears
• Azeleic acid ~ from the metabolism of a form of yeast (originally used for treating acne)
• Bearberry Extract (also referred to as Uva Ursi) ~ from the leaves of the Bearberry Shrub
• Chamomile Extract
• Dithiaoctanediol
• Glabridin ~ licorice extract (also has the added benefit of anti-inflammatory properties)
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Kojic Acid ~ from fungal metabolism
• Lemon
• Mitracarpus Scaber ~ from the leaves of a tropical plant native to West Africa
• Mulberry Extract
• Niacinamide ~ commonly known as vitamin B3
• Polyphenols and proanthocyanidin oligomers ~ found in white tea extract
• Vitamin C

And, don't forget those amazing AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), i.e. glycolic, lactic, citric, malic or tartaric, that are primarily found in lightening products because they promote exfoliation. This alone will lighten the depth of the hyperpigmentation. Once dead surface cells are removed there will be better penetration of other actives, enhancing their effects. Exfoliation promotes cell regeneration for a quicker movement of newer, less pigmented cells to the skin's surface. The results? Lightening strikes.

Melanin - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Ah, brown spots, . . . some are beautiful, some are not. Some are inherited, like freckles, others are caused by irritation, friction or injury on the skin (this could be as simple as a pimple). Some are caused by hormonal, or drug, stimulation of the cells that make melanin, and some are pigmentation marks referred to as photo-aging, which are the tell-tale signs of sun exposure during a lifetime.

Hyperpigmentation is triggered by an enzyme that blocks the production of melanin causing an oxidation reaction much like the blackening of a potato, or avocado, when exposed to air.

No matter the cause, there are two approaches to lightening hyperpigmentation. Skin bleaching and skin lightening. The only skin bleaching agent the FDA acknowledges is hydroquinone which gives fairly rapid results, but unfortunately they are short lived. Darker pigmented cells will surface when the lightened ones shed.

Skin lightening products and light therapy can offer longer lasting improvements, although the results may take a little longer (approximately 28 days). They are more efficient and much easier on the skin. A good exfoliation routine will allow for better penetration of the ingredients being applied. No matter the type of pigmentation you want to treat, sun exposure is counterproductive, so make sure to wear sun protection and/or avoid UV exposure.

Coming up . . . reviews of skin lighteners.

Hydroquinone - The Big Unknown

Hydroquinone is used in skin care to temporarily lighten pigmentations such as freckles, pregnancy mask and age spots by inhibiting the process that leads to discoloration. In the United States, the FDA estimates there are 65 companies selling more than 200 products containing hydroquinone in an array of over-the-counter products (up to 2% strength) and prescriptions (up to 4%). The most common preparation is a 3% topical solution that is generally applied twice a day on non irritated skin (eye and mouth areas must be avoided).

Hydroquinone has been shrouded in controversy since 2001 when it was banned in Europe following clinical tests showing it was the cause of leukemia in mice when used in large doses for a long period of time. Japan, Australia and Canada followed suit. The U.S. has proposed a ban, or at the very least, the FDA is pushing for stronger regulations and physician's prescriptions. Currently, there is a four month grace period while the new proposed regulations are being discussed. For now, if you live in the U.S., you have a choice as to whether to use it, or not. It is a time to do your homework and make a wise personal decision.

Cautionary Info:
Exposure to ultra violet rays will trigger repigmentation of the bleached areas. It is always recommended to avoid UV exposure and wear sun protection. It is not recommended if you have allergies to sulfites. There can be side effects, or allergic reactions, such as a rash, erythema (redness), swelling, blistering, drying of the skin, cracking or peeling of the skin, even shortness of breath. In rare cases Onchronosis can develop, which is a blue black darkening and thickening of the skin. There has also been some evidence of abnormal adrenal functioning and high mercury levels in individuals using topical hydroquinone as well as some research has shown it to be a carcinogen.

The good news? There are so many other options to lightening pigmentation that are effective without the side effects or aggression of this compound. Some may take a little longer to show results, but there is no question they are much safer.

Stay tuned . . .

SPA SWEEPSTAKES - ENTER TO WIN

WORLD OF GRAINS SPA ESCAPE
ENTER BY JUNE 15TH
One (1) Grand Prize: a 4 day/3 night stay for two (2) at Wentworth by the Sea, A Marriott Hotel and Spa in New Castle, New Hampshire consisting of double occupancy accommodations, three (3) meals per person per day at Wentworth by the Sea, and two (2) $250 gift certificates redeemable at the Spa at Wentworth. All expenses not included in the prize description above (including but not limited to transportation, additional meals, all alcoholic beverages, gratuities, insurance and personal and hotel incidentals) will be the sole responsibility of winner. Prize must be redeemed by June 15, 2009. Approximate retail value of the Grand Prize is $4999.00.

FINE LIVING - I NEED A GETAWAY
ENTER BY JUNE 20TH, 2008
One (1) Grand Prize winner will win the following: (i) $10,000 cash for the winner only (awarded as a check); and (ii) a trip to Cabo, Mexico for Grand Prize winner and three (3) guests on dates to be determined by Sponsor [please confirm]. The trip shall consist of the following: (a) round trip coach class air transportation for four (4) people between the major U.S. commercial airport nearest Grand Prize winner's residence to Cabo, Mexico; (b) ground transportation between the airport and hotel accommodations; (c) hotel accommodations for four (4) days/three (3) nights (two (2) double occupancy rooms, room rate and tax only); (d) four (4) spa treatment vouchers at a spa to be determined by Sponsor; and (e) four (4) digital cameras (make and model to be determined by Sponsor). Total Approximate Retail Value of the Grand Prize: $23,000.

SPA WEEK SWEEPSTAKES
ENTER JUNE BY 30TH, 2008
One (1) Grand Prize: 4 day/3 night package at Green Valley Spa & Resort. Accommodations in Four Diamond-rated luxury suites with complimentary high speed wireless internet and nightly turndown. Daily guided hikes in southern Utah's scenic backcountry. Delicious cuisine prepared by Green Valley Spa'0's chefs. Complete access to daily classes including yoga, Tai Chi, circuit training, BootCamp boxing, mat Pilates, and meditation. Daily Mind, Body, Spirit seminars. Cooking classes from Green Valley Spa'0's chefs. Use of resort amenities, LifeFitness equipment, relaxation rooms, tennis courts, racquetball courts, pools and jacuzzis. One (1) Spa Treatment per person per stay, Two (2) personal training sessions with Green Valley Spa'0's fitness instructors. The Approximate Retail Value of the Grand Prize is $2,830.