SKIN ANALYSIS 101

Time to get back to the basics. A good skin care routine begins with a proper skin analysis. Here are some of the tell-tale signs of three skin types. Which one are you?

YOUR SKIN IS NORMAL IF:
• the texture of your skin is even
• there is an even coloration to your skin
• the pores are visible but not overly enlarged
• the skin looks slightly moist
• T-zone is a little oilier than the rest of the face


YOUR SKIN IS DRY IF:
• your pores are invisible
• your skin lacks suppleness
• your skin feels tight
• your skin reacts quickly to abuse like weather, harsh products, or lack of attention (likes TLC)
• if you have come through that special passage to post menopause you may see your pores, but the skin may be dry as post menopausal skin does not produce as much sebum as it used to
• dry skin is usually thinner skin
• the texture is usually quite fine unless the skin is dehydrated as well
• dry skin can be beautiful if cared for, but ages quickly if neglected

YOUR SKIN IS OILY IF:
• your pores are enlarged
• your skin has a sheen to it (even with out a cream) and feels oily, or is dull and feels waxy
• it is prone to comedones (blackheads) or blemishes
• the texture is usually uneven due to enlarged pores and thickening Stratum Corneum

Anti-Aging Products vs Skin Type

We all need anti-age treatments for our skin, . . . well the largest percentage of the population anyway. However, it is equally important to ensure that the needs of our specific skin types are addressed. For example, a skin that lacks sebum (oil) is dry skin. A no brainer, right? Right. So, no matter how much money you throw at buying an intense firming anti-age treatment, it will not have the desired effect unless the dryness is taken into consideration and treated.

An oily skin type must also be acknowledged before, and during, an anti-age treatment to obtain the desired results. Products that are too rich, products that are not emollient enough, those that use stimulating procedures (products, machines or massage), or those not stimulating enough will have a definite effect on the outcome of the treatment. All these components must be carefully thought out.

Anti-aging skin care has come a long way. There are incredible treatments ranging from standard facial cares to those incorporating equipment, including light therapy and microdermabrasion. It can all be rather confusing, not to mention a big money waster without proper guidance. The key is to work with a professional esthetician who can guide you as to what is best for your skin type while addressing your anti-aging concerns and gain professional insight for effective home care.

Dermalogica’s Sebum Clearing Masque

This mask is great for the acne prone skin. It contains some salicylic acid to encourage the elimination of dead keratinized cells that thicken the skin and contribute to blocked pores, blackheads and blemishes. An oily skin tends to be a little thicker and requires a healthy routine of non-aggressive, non-irritating exfoliation. Dermalogica's mask allows for effective exfoliation without rubbing, or the aggression of grains, which are contra-indicated (not a great idea) for blemished skin.

The kaolin, titanium dioxode and bentonite in this mask give it great absorption properties, but do not to let it dry as it will dehydrate the skin (they are great for absorbing, but will absorb oil and water). Generally, any clay (kaolin, titanium dioxide) base mask is only active when it is wet, . . . so apply, leave on for ten minutes and rinse. The rule that applies here is, "longer will not be better."

There is an abundance of great ingredients to bring the oil and acne under control. These include the anti-inflammatory properties of meadowsweet, healing properties of camphor and zinc, yeast and horsechest nut extracts, along with caffeine to promote circulation and detoxification of the skin. The liquorice and bisabolol will act to calm redness and irritation. The nice mix of B vitamins (essentially for healthy skin) and, of course, the anti-oxidant compliment of vitamin E completes the efficacy of this product.

All in all, a pleasant mask to use. For maximum results, try using the mask more frequently, perhaps 3 or 4 times a week when you feel your skin needs it. Here's to clear and healthy skin.