Beta Hydroxy Acid - BHA

In the world of cosmetics, Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is the term used to describe an oil-soluble, natural occurring acid that exfoliates cellular buildup while targeting the oil embedded in the pores. Although the exfoliation properties are similar to Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), BHA performs at a deeper level with the ability to penetrate the pores and dislodge impurities. Oily, acne prone skin benefits more from this type of exfoliant than the AHAs. Beta Hydroxy Acid is considered less irritating than the AHAs, but the skin needs to be gradually introduced to this ingredient. Caution is required to prevent redness and inflammation.

Salicylic Acid is the star of this show. Derived from willow bark, salicylic acid is an effective weapon used against non-inflamed acne, psoriasis and eczema. Found in cleansers, lotions and creams, this ingredient speeds up cell turnover and targets the activity going on in the pores to help prevent clogging while breaking down blackheads and whiteheads. Its natural anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties have a positive effect on troubled skin, which in turn, results in improved skin texture and skin tone. A star indeed.

A few words of warning . . . those with an allergy to aspirin should avoid any products containing this ingredient as salicylic acid is part of the aspirin family. Sensitivity to sun exposure greatly increases so it is an absolute must to use an SPF. Pregnant women should check with their doctors before using any products containing a BHA.

Dermalogica’s Sebum Clearing Masque

This mask is great for the acne prone skin. It contains some salicylic acid to encourage the elimination of dead keratinized cells that thicken the skin and contribute to blocked pores, blackheads and blemishes. An oily skin tends to be a little thicker and requires a healthy routine of non-aggressive, non-irritating exfoliation. Dermalogica's mask allows for effective exfoliation without rubbing, or the aggression of grains, which are contra-indicated (not a great idea) for blemished skin.

The kaolin, titanium dioxode and bentonite in this mask give it great absorption properties, but do not to let it dry as it will dehydrate the skin (they are great for absorbing, but will absorb oil and water). Generally, any clay (kaolin, titanium dioxide) base mask is only active when it is wet, . . . so apply, leave on for ten minutes and rinse. The rule that applies here is, "longer will not be better."

There is an abundance of great ingredients to bring the oil and acne under control. These include the anti-inflammatory properties of meadowsweet, healing properties of camphor and zinc, yeast and horsechest nut extracts, along with caffeine to promote circulation and detoxification of the skin. The liquorice and bisabolol will act to calm redness and irritation. The nice mix of B vitamins (essentially for healthy skin) and, of course, the anti-oxidant compliment of vitamin E completes the efficacy of this product.

All in all, a pleasant mask to use. For maximum results, try using the mask more frequently, perhaps 3 or 4 times a week when you feel your skin needs it. Here's to clear and healthy skin.

Acne Cosmetica aka Acne Picea

Acne Cosmetica, aka Acne Picea, is an externally caused acne where inferior cosmetics, or skin care products, are the big, bad trouble makers. It can be caused by other environmental influences, such as jobs that require wearing a face mask . . . i.e., nail techs that deal with the dust from nail drills, or pedicurists who use electric files, or dental assistants. Those who work in a dusty environment, or around deep fryers, (like those in the local fast food kitchen) may also be prone to this type of acne.

Acne Picea consists of mainly comedones (blackheads), and can appear on a normal to oily skin. You need to be sure the products you use are not occlusive on your skin, dehydrating, or too strong for your skin type, as this will trigger dehydration and increase oil secretion. Also, check the foundation you use to be sure it is not blocking your pores or feels too heavy on your skin. Gentle regular exfoliation will generally offer great results, along with deep cleansers, decongesting masks, and light protective day creams. Spa treatments could include professional peels, microdermabrasion, and deep cleansing treatments with extractions.

Acne, Acne, Acne . . .

One or two blemishes is not really an indication of the 'dreaded' acne. Acne is a fairly broad condition that includes different types of skin blemishes and various causes and triggers, such as a genetic predispostion, hormonal fluctuations, stress, environment, UV exposure, skin care products, procedures, and lifestyle (i.e. diet, sleep, smoking, alcohol). Some types of acne are considered to be caused internally while others are external.

Treating or caring for the different types of acne varies on whether you are trying to heal a few blemishes, or treat a general condition. The more that is understood about the cause of the triggers for the breakouts, the better the results that can be achieved. There are some incredible treatments and products to help heal and redefine an acneic condition. These range from specialized facials,light therapy, microdermabrasion, (not for pustular acne), desincrustacian, high frequency, to homecare products. Some minor changes can often rectify the condition, for example, using a different day cream to protect the skin from the environment, or incorporating specific serums or lotions into your routine. It goes without saying that healthier lifestyle habits will also make a big change in the skin, such as not smoking, keeping the skin hydrated, getting sufficient sleep, eating a balanced diet, etc.

If you are considering a change to an acne care line, . . . do your homework. Be careful not to jump into harsher, stronger products that may only irritate your skin and worsen the condition. Some examples of caring for different types of blemishes that are part of the acne family will be posted later this week . . . stay tuned!